John Libbey Eurotext

European Journal of Dermatology


Effects of Hydroxydecine ® (10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid) on skin barrier structure and function in vitro and clinical efficacy in the treatment of UV-induced xerosis Volume 21, numéro 6, November-December 2011

Centre R&D Pierre Fabre 3, avenue Hubert Curien, 31035 Toulouse, France, Centre de Recherche sur la Peau, Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Toulouse, France, Laboratoires Dermatologiques DUCRAY, Lavaur, France, Banque de Tissu et Cellules, Hôpital Edouard-Herriot, Lyon, France

10-Hydroxy-2-decenoic acid, a natural fatty acid only found in royal jelly, may be of value in correcting skin barrier dysfunction. We evaluated the activity of Hydroxydecine ®, its synthetic counterpart, in vitro on the regulation of epidermal differentiation markers, ex vivo on the inflammatory response and restoration of skin barrier function, and in vivo on UV-induced xerosis in healthy human volunteers. In cultured normal human keratinocytes, Hydroxydecine ® induced involucrin, transglutaminase-1 and filaggrin protein production. In topically Hydroxydecine ®-treated skin equivalents, immunohistochemical analysis revealed an increase in involucrin, transglutaminase-1 and filaggrin staining. In a model of thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP)-induced inflamed epidermis, a Hydroxydecine ®-containing emulsion inhibited TSLP release. In a model of inflammation and barrier impairment involving human skin explants maintained alive, Hydroxydecine ® balm restored stratum corneum cohesion and significantly increased filaggrin expression, as shown by immunohistochemistry. It also decreased pro-inflammatory cytokine secretion (IL-4, IL-5 and IL-13). In healthy volunteers with UV-induced xerosis, the hydration index increased by +28.8% (p<0.01) and +60.4% (p<0.001) after 7 and 21 days of treatment with Hydroxydecine ® cream, respectively. Hydroxydecine ® thus proved its efficacy in activating keratinocyte differentiation processes in vitro, restoring skin barrier function and reducing inflammation ex vivo, and hydrating dry skin in vivo.