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Contact allergy to hair colouring products The cosmetovigilance experience of 4 companies (2003-2006)


European Journal of Dermatology. Volume 20, Numéro 1, 85-95, January-February 2010, Clinical report

DOI : 10.1684/ejd.2010.0808

Summary  

Auteur(s) : Maya Krasteva, Brigitte Bons, Sarah Tozer, Kim Rich, Edo Hoting, Detlef Hollenberg, Anne Fuchs, Rolf Fautz , L’Oréal Research and Development, 25-29 quai Aulagnier, 92600 Asnières, France, P&G Technical Centres, Rusham Park, Whitehall Lane, Egham, Surrey, TW20 9NW, UK, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Henkelstr. 67, 40589 Düsseldorf, Germany, KPSS – Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH, Pfungstaedter Strasse 92 – 100, 64297 Darmstadt, Germany.

Illustrations

ARTICLE

Auteur(s) : Maya Krasteva1, Brigitte Bons1, Sarah Tozer2, Kim Rich2, Edo Hoting3, Detlef Hollenberg3, Anne Fuchs4, Rolf Fautz4

1L’Oréal Research and Development, 25-29 quai Aulagnier, 92600 Asnières, France
2P&G Technical Centres, Rusham Park, Whitehall Lane, Egham, Surrey, TW20 9NW, UK
3Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Henkelstr. 67, 40589 Düsseldorf, Germany
4KPSS – Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH, Pfungstaedter Strasse 92 – 100, 64297 Darmstadt, Germany

accepté le 17 Août 2009

Oxidative hair dyes have repeatedly come to the attention of the dermatological community due to concerns of contact sensitivity (type IV allergic reactions). It has recently been stated that contact allergy to p-phenylenediamine (PPD) has increased significantly in the general population in the recent decades [1, 2]. Two exhaustive reviews of epidemiological data on consumer allergy to PPD, however, showed no clear increase of positive patch tests to PPD in eczema patients and in the general population in Europe over the last 40 years [3, 4]. All the parameters through which the frequency of hair dye dermatitis was evaluated have been stable in Europe with a few exceptions [4].

This paper analyses post-marketing undesirable events (UEvs) to hair colouring products notified to the cosmetovigilance departments of four major companies in the European Union in a 4-year period. These companies are referred to as Company 1, 2, 3 and 4. To date, no paper has been published on post-marketing surveillance data of hair colouring products.

The objective of the analysis was to determine whether there was any:

  • time effect (trend to increase or decrease of notified undesirable events and effects);
  • country effect (significant difference between the countries included in the analysis);
  • product type effect (direct or oxidation);

as well as to identify risk factors.

Material and methods

Spontaneous reporting and post-marketing surveillance procedures

Cosmetovigilance is a post-marketing surveillance method, mainly based on the analysis of spontaneous reports. It is effected via an integrated stepwise process requiring collection, monitoring and evaluation of undesirable events.

A spontaneous report is an unsolicited communication by a consumer, a healthcare professional, a regulatory authority or another organisation that describes an undesirable reaction in a consumer who used a cosmetic product.

Monitoring of spontaneous reporting is an efficient method for capturing changes in market place acceptance or tolerance of products and can provide important information on “at-risk groups”, risk factors, and clinical features of known serious undesirable reactions. Caution should be exercised in evaluating spontaneous reports, especially when comparison is made between different countries or between companies where cosmetovigilance systems are implemented differently. The rate at which cases are reported is dependent on many factors, including the time since product launch, cultural consumer habits, media attention or environmental/public health concern and current national regulatory requirements on cosmetovigilance.

In countries or in companies where cosmetovigilance has been implemented for several years, spontaneous reporting gives a meaningful indication on reporting rate. The reporting rate is based on the number of spontaneously reported undesirable events (the numerator) and the population exposure (the denominator). Reporting rates are not incidence rates; they are, however, a useful indicator to identify and describe a signal.

Cosmetic companies conduct post-marketing surveillance by collecting undesirable events that have occurred during or after use of their products. In 2005, Colipa issued “Guidelines on the Management of Undesirable Events, Final version adopted by Board of Directors, August 23, 2005” which describes the consistent processes to be implemented by the cosmetic industry [5]. These guidelines provide methodology on receiving, centralizing, recording and analyzing genuine undesirable event reports, allowing the consistent generation of high quality and reliable data, using a common method of causality assessment.

The processes in place for collecting undesirable events are similar between the cosmetic companies concerned. Complaints related to intolerance are reported to persons responsible locally in the different countries. All available medical information on an initial complaint is collected, including the results of complementary investigations if performed (such as patch tests in case of suspected allergic reactions). It is important to underline that cosmetovigilance is mainly based on consumer self-reporting and as such not all the medical information required for reliable assessment is available in all cases.

Causality assessment

All cases of alleged undesirable events (UEvs) are entered into a centralized database. Thereafter causality assessment is performed on a case-by-case basis, where feasible. The objective of the causality assessment is to determine the probability that a product used by a consumer is responsible for an undesirable event. The causal relationship between the use of a cosmetic product and the event can be qualified as: very likely, likely, questionable, unlikely or excluded, according to the following criteria (algorithm shown in figure 1): i) the type of clinical reaction which may be more or less evocative of a skin disorder related to the use of the suspected cosmetic product; ii) the time sequence (chronology) of events which may be compatible with the appearance of clinical manifestations characteristic of a particular skin disorder elicited by the product and iii) the results or the absence of specific medical investigations, or the result of re-exposure to the suspected product. If another cause is identified, the relationship between the reaction and the product is excluded.

Undesirable events (UEvs) given a causality assessment of “likely” or “very likely” are classified as undesirable effects (UEfs), which are reasonably attributable to product use (figure 2).

An event is qualified as a serious or non-serious undesirable event/effect depending on the objective symptoms, the outcome or the necessity of specific treatment (WHO and ICH guidelines). Serious events are those that are i) fatal; ii) life-threatening; iii) permanently/significantly disabling; iv) require or prolong hospitalization; v) cause congenital anomaly or vi) require intervention to prevent permanent impairment or damage.

Products

Included in the analysis are the following types of hair colouring products:
  • Oxidation (permanent, demi-permanent/tone on tone) hair dyes (approximately 80 to 90% market share);
  • Direct (semi-permanent and temporary) hair dyes (approximately 10% to 20% of market share).

Different brands of both types are marketed for home use and for professional use. Some of the hair dye manufacturers market only professional use products.

Company 1 presents data on both professional and home use products; Companies 2 and 3 present data only on home use products, due to missing reporting from professionals in the past and, in some instances, to lack of sales figures, and Company 4 presents data only on professional products.

Data collection and reporting rates

Each Companies has collected the alleged undesirable events (UEvs) reported for their hair colouring products in the key European markets during a 4 year period, from 2003 to 2006. The rates are reported company by company. The reporting rates for products for a particular country are calculated as the number of UEvs and UEfs collected with the products per million units sold for the period considered (1 year or 4 year period). The European reporting rate for products for a particular year is calculated as the sum of all the countries’ UEvs and UEfs collected during that year, per million units of product sold for the same year. Where a 4 year rate (2003 to 2006) is given, it is calculated as the total number of UEvs or total number of UEfs reported with hair colouring products sold during the 4 years, per million units sold.

From these data, three main series of reporting rates are provided:

European reporting rates for all types and levels of causality assessment of alleged UEvs

For the calculation of these rates, data are based on 11 countries for Company 1, 10 countries for Company 2, 23 countries for Company 3 and 1 country for Company 4. These countries are selected by each company as key European markets.

Yearly and country rates of UEvs were calculated for all hair colouring products and, separately, for oxidation and for direct hair colouring products.

European reporting rates for UEfs (causality assessment likely and very likely) with manifestations compatible with allergic contact dermatitis

The method of calculation is the same as above and the data are issued from the same countries as above. These rates are provided by each company for the 4 year period and are given for oxidation hair colouring products and direct colouring products separately.

Specific analysis of UEvs and UEfs (causality assessment likely and very likely) related to the use of oxidation hair colouring products in selected countries

A detailed analysis was performed in order to investigate for an increase in the rates of allergy to permanent (oxidation) hair colouring products across the EU Member States. The countries selected by each company fulfil the following criteria:
  • Each Company has a large and/or stable sales market;
  • The cosmetovigilance processes have been efficient for a significant period;
  • Northern and Southern European regions are covered.

For this specific analysis, data are issued from:

  • 3 countries for Company 1 (UK, France, Germany);
  • 4 countries for Company 2 (UK, Sweden, Spain and Greece);
  • 7 countries for Company 3 (UK, Germany, Scandinavian countries (4 countries), France);
  • 1 country for Company 4 (Germany).

The following (I to VI) reporting rates were calculated for each year from 2003 to 2006, for each selected country and when feasible, for each product distribution network (home use or salon): I) All types of undesirable effects to oxidation hair colouring products; II) A breakdown of undesirable effects into allergic contact dermatitis and scalp and skin irritation [6, 7]; III) Oedematous-type contact allergic dermatitis cases. Oedema is taken as an indication that the reaction is severe; IV) Serious cases of allergic contact dermatitis; V) Allergic contact dermatitis following the use of black henna tattoos. The reporting rates concerning black henna tattoos will be given separately for serious and non serious cases of allergic contact dermatitis; VI) The age distribution for serious and non serious undesirable effects compatible with allergic contact dermatitis.

All data are normalised against the units of product sold (number/million units sold).

Statistical methods

Time effect was analyzed using a regression analysis. When p < 5%, it was considered that there was a statistically significant decrease or increase of reporting rates. When p > 5% it was considered that there was no statistical time effect during the period, but it could be considered that a trend exists when p is between 5 and 10%.

Reporting rates in different countries for the same company and reporting rates to different types of products (direct vs oxidation hair colour) or distribution networks (professional vs home use) were compared and analysed using a Chi-square test. When p < 5%, it was considered that there was a statistically significant difference between 2 countries, types of products or distribution networks. When p > 5% it was considered that there was no statistical difference between 2 countries, types of products or the 2 distribution networks. But it could be considered that a trend exists if p is between 5 and 10%.

The influence of having a henna tattoo on the reaction type (serious reaction or non serious reaction), was analyzed by comparing with a Chi-square test the rate of having a serious reaction among people who had an undesirable event, according to whether they have had a henna tattoo or not. When p < 5%, it was considered that there was a statistically significant difference in the incidence of serious UEfs in the group of consumers with past history of black henna tattoos and the incidence of severe UEfs in the group of consumers with negative or unknown history of black henna tattoo applications. When p > 5% it was considered that there was no statistically significant difference in the incidence of severe UEfs in the two groups.

It was not possible to do a statistical analysis on the age distribution of serious UEfs as the actual number of units sold to each age group is unknown.

Results

European reporting rates on all types of alleged UEvs (all type of events, all levels of causality assessment)

These results concern medical complaints notified to the companies before any causality assessment is performed to determine which of them are reasonably attributable to product use. After causality assessment is performed, these rates will correspond to all five levels of causality assessment.

Country yearly rates were calculated for all kinds of hair colouring products together, and then for oxidation and direct hair colour separately. The yearly European rates for the four companies are shown in table 1. There is no time effect for the European area as a whole for any of the companies, for all hair colouring products and for the two product types analysed separately. The UEvs rates to direct hair colour were significantly lower than to oxidation hair colour for 3 of the 4 companies; there was no statistically significant difference between product types for Company 2.
Table 1 European reporting rates of undesirable events (UEvs, all levels of causality assessment) for all hair colouring products and separately, for oxidation and direct hair colouring products. Rates are calculated as the number of UEvs per million of units sold

Year

4-year rate 2003 to 2006

2003

2004

2005

2006

Company 1 (11 countries)

All products

5.4

3.6

4.3

4.0

4.3

Oxidation hair colour

6.4

4.1

4.9

4.9

5.1

Direct hair colour

0.8

1.2

0.9

0.7

0.9

Company 2 (10 countries)

All products

34.9

45.3

38.2

24.9

37.8

Oxidation hair colour

37.7

49.9

37.2

25

47.6

Direct hair colour

19.4

14.9

51.1

23.7

26.1

Company 3 (23 countries)

All products

3.4

3.9

4.2

4.0

3.9

Oxidation hair colour

3.5

4.1

4.3

3.7

3.9

Direct hair colour

1.3

0.8

2.3

3.5

2.0

Company 4 (1 country)

All products

0.6

0.5

0.4

0.6

0.5

Oxidation hair colour

0.6

0.5

0.4

0.6

0.5

Direct hair colour

0.0

0.0

0.0

0.0

0.0

European reporting rates for UEfs with manifestations compatible with allergic contact dermatitis (causality assessment likely and very likely)

These results concern notifications which, after causality assessment, are considered reasonably attributable to product use (UEfs) and which, furthermore, have medical manifestations, chronology characteristics and eventually medical investigations which are compatible with allergic contact dermatitis to hair colouring products. European reporting rates (per million units sold) are shown in table 2.

The analysis of these rates for time effect shows that there is no significant increase or decrease with time for any company reporting in the European area as a whole, neither for allergic contact dermatitis related to oxidation hair colouring products nor for allergic contact dermatitis related to direct hair colouring products.

These data show that the reporting rates of UEfs compatible with allergic contact dermatitis to direct hair colouring products are significantly lower than the reporting rates to oxidation hair colouring products for each company.

European reporting rates on the 4-year period for each of the companies are presented in table 3. These include alleged UEvs prior to medical assessment and reporting rates for UEfs compatible with allergic contact dermatitis. These rates have been calculated for the two types of hair colouring products together and then separately.

Table 3 shows that the incidence of allergic contact dermatitis related to hair colouring products is significantly less than the incidence of all alleged UEvs. This is true both for oxidative and direct dyes. The incidence of allergic contact dermatitis related to direct hair colouring products is lower than the incidence for oxidative hair colouring products.
Table 2 European reporting rates of undesirable effects (UEfs) with manifestations compatible with allergic contact dermatitis (causality assessment likely and very likely) for oxidation and direct hair colouring products. Rates are calculated as the number of UEfs per million of units sold

Year

2003

2004

2005

2006

Company 1 (11 countries)

Oxidation hair colour

1.4

0.9

1.3

1.3

Direct hair colour

0.1

0.3

0.1

0.1

Company 2 (4 countries)

Oxidation hair colour

3.4

4.8

4.6

4.2

Direct hair colour

0.4

0.28

0.89

0.0

Company 3 (23 countries)

Oxidation hair colour (very likely)

0.2

0.5

0.8

0.3

Oxidation hair colour (very likely + likely)

0.2

0.5

1.2*

1.0*

Direct hair colour (very likely)

0.0

0.3

0.5

0.2

Direct hair colour (very likely + likely)

0.0

0.3

0.7*

0.4*

Company 4 (1 country)

Oxidation hair colour

0.3

0.2

0.3

0.2

Direct hair colour

0.0

0.0

0.0

0.0


Table 3 European 4-year reporting rates of alleged UEvs (prior to medical evaluation, all levels of causality assessment) and UEfs with manifestations compatible with allergic contact dermatitis (causality assessment likely and very likely) for oxidation and direct hair colouring products. Rates are calculated as the number of events per million of units sold

Company 1

Company 2

Company 3

Company 4

11 countries

4 countries

23 countries

1 country

Alleged undesirable events (unselected consumer reports, all levels of causality assessment)

To all hair colouring products

4.3

43.8

3.9

0.5

To oxidation hair colouring products

5.1

47.6

3.9

0.5

To direct hair colouring products

0.9

26.1

2

0

Undesirable effects with manifestations compatible with allergic contact dermatitis (causality assessment likely and very likely)

To oxidation hair colouring products

1.2*

4.5*

0.8*

0.28*

To direct hair colouring products

0.2*#

0.4*#

0.3*#

0*#

Specific analysis on oxidation hair colouring products in selected countries

Time and Country effect on UEvs and UEfs reported with oxidation hair colouring products

The yearly reporting rates (per million units sold) of alleged UEvs (all levels of causality assessment) and UEfs (causality assessment likely and very likely) reported with oxidation hair colouring products for each company in selected countries are shown in table 4.
Table 4 Time and country effects on rates of alleged UEvs and UEfs reported with oxidation hair colouring products. Rates are calculated as the number of events per million of units sold

Alleged UEvs/million units sold

Likely and very likely UEfs/million units sold

2003

2004

2005

2006

4-year rate 2003 to 2006

2003

2004

2005

2006

4-year rate 2003 to 2006

Company 1

UK

11.1

5.5

10

13.5

10.1

6

3.1

5.5

6.9

5.2

France

6.2

4.5

4.4

4.8

5.0

2

1.4

1.5

1.4

1.4

Germany

9.8

7.5

8.2

3.7

7.3

3.1

2.3

2.9

0.9

2.0

Company 2

UK

38.8

67.9

72.1

42.5

55.1

3.8

5.9

5.5

4.7

5.0

Sweden

5.8

19.6

13.1

20.2

16.7

5.8

8.4

8.3

9.0

7.9

Spain

nm

5.6

9.9

4.9

7.1

nm

3.8

8.4

4.2

5.4

Greece

0.0

1.0

11.5

8.2

7.8

0.0

0.0

1.6

5.6

1.8

Company 3

UK

6.2

6.3

10.5

8

7.7

0

0.2

1.0*

0.3*

0.5

Germany

5.6

7.6

7.8

5.1

6.6

0.3

0.9

2.6*

2.0*

1.8

Scandinavian countries

1.4

1.6

4

7

3.3

0.2

0.6

1.3*

1.1*

1.0

France

1.6

1.4

1.4

4.1

2.2

0.2

0

0.4*

1.3*

0.6

Company 4

Germany

0.58

0.5

0.42

0.58

0.52

0.33

0.25

0.25

0.33

0.29

Time effect

Analysis of these rates over time shows that there are no statistically significant differences in the yearly reporting rates for Company 1 and 4 during the period of analysis in any of the countries. For Company 2, a trend to increase was observed in Greece for UEfs, although the level of complaints was very low: 0 complaints for 2003 and 2004, 3 complaints in 2005 and 11 complaints in 2006, corresponding to 0, 1.6 and 5.6 events per million of units sold (table 4). The numbers of complaints are too low to produce a meaningful analysis. For the other countries there are no statistically significant differences. For Company 3, a trend to increase of alleged UEvs was noted in the Scandinavian countries (Sweden, Denmark, Norway and Finland) (p = 0.059), which the company explains with improved data collection due to restructuring of data collection and cosmetovigilance processes.

Country effect

For Company 1, the reporting rates (UEvs and UEfs) are higher in the UK than in France and in Germany (statistically significant difference by Chi-square test, which compares the 4 year period reporting rate of each country). For Company 2, the reported UEvs are higher in the UK than in Sweden, Spain and Greece, but there is no difference in the notification rates of UEfs confirmed as causally linked to the product (likely and very likely) in the UK, Sweden, Spain and Greece. For Company 3, there is no statistically significant difference between countries (UK, Germany, Scandinavian countries and France), both for UEvs and UEfs.

Effect of Home use versus Salon use on rates of alleged UEvs and UEfs due to oxidation hair colouring products

This analysis is provided only for Company 1 and the breakdown of UEvs and UEfs accordingly to the distribution network (home use or professional) for each country is shown in table 5, for each year from 2003 to 2006 and for the whole 4 year period. The comparison between rates for home use products and rates for professional products, year per year and for the 4 year period, shows that the reporting rates to home use products are altogether higher than the reporting rates for professional products in all three countries included in the analysis, both for UEvs and for UEfs. The reporting rates of UEvs and UEfs do not show any increase within each distribution network, neither for home use nor for professional products.
Table 5 Reporting rates of UEvs and UEfs to oxidation hair colouring products depending on the distribution network (professional vs home use)

Alleged UEvs/million units sold

UEfs/million units sold (causality assessment likely and very likely

2003

2004

2005

2006

4-year rate 2003 to 2006

2003

2004

2005

2006

4-year rate 2003 to 2006

professional

home-use

professional

home-use

professional

home-use

professional

home-use

professional

home-use

professional

home-use

professional

home-use

professional

home-use

professional

home-use

professional

home-use

UK

10.1

11.5

4.2

6.3

6.2

12.7

11.0

14.8

7.7

11.5

6.4

5.8

2.5

3.4

4.0

6.6

6.0

7.3

4.7

5.8

France

1.2

11.5

0.8

8.6

0.7

8.6

0.7

9.1

0.9

9.5

0.5

3.6

0.3

2.5

0.3

2.9

0.4

2.5

0.4

2.9

Germany

0.7

12.6

1.4

9.6

2.1

10.5

2.5

4.1

1.7

9.2

0.3

3.9

0.0

3.0

0.6

3.8

1.3

0.8

0.6

2.9

Type of manifestations and henna tattoo effect on the severity of the reaction

UEfs (causality assessment likely and very likely) were analysed further according to the type of manifestations (chiefly scalp and skin irritation or allergic contact dermatitis) and to the severity of the allergic contact dermatitis reactions. This breakdown is shown in table 6 (last 2 columns: 2006 data only).

Oedema was used as a criterion of greater severity throughout the period, the definition of a serious undesirable event becoming available only in 2005 (Colipa Guideline on the management of undesirable event reports) [5]. Serious UEvs were less than 5% of all UEvs notified to companies.

As shown in table 6, there was a known history of black henna tattoo application in a significant number of serious undesirable events: 50% for Company 1 (2006). For other companies who started more recently to collect data on henna tattoos, an indication of association is also observed. However, in a great number of cases, exposure to black henna tattoos cannot be characterised: it is difficult to obtain an answer from the consumers due to different reasons inherent to spontaneous reporting methods (in many cases people cannot be contacted directly by company for a more detailed questionnaire).

To better characterise the importance of black henna tattoos in the elicitation of serious UEfs to hair colouring products, the incidence of serious undesirable effects in consumers with known black henna tattoo applications has been compared to the incidence of serious undesirable effects in consumers with unknown or absent black henna tattoo application, for each Company. The incidence of serious undesirable effects was calculated as follows:

  • for consumers with known black henna tattoo applications, the percentage of people who had a serious reaction among all the people who had a reaction (serious or not serious) and who declared that they had a black henna tattoo application;
  • for consumers with unknown or absent black henna tattoo applications, the percentage of people who had a serious reaction among all the people who had a reaction (serious or not serious) and who declared that they had no black henna tattoo application.

The comparison between the incidence of serious UEfs in consumers with known black henna tattoo applications to the incidence of serious UEfs in consumers with unknown or absent black henna tattoo applications (table 7) shows that there is a statistically significant difference for Company 1 and for the three companies together (p < 0.001, Chi-square test). Black henna tattoo application increases by more than four times the reporting of occurrence of a serious reaction to hair colouring products.
Table 6 Type of manifestations to oxidation hair colouring products and effect of black henna tattoos on the seriousness of the reaction. Rates are calculated as the number of UEfs per million of units sold

All UEfs (causality assessment likely and very likely)

Scalp and skin irritation

Allergic contact dermatitis

Oedematous allergic contact dermatitis

Serious Events*

Serious UEfs with past history of black henna tattoo application

Company 1

UK

5.21

1.40

3.81

2.55

1.00

0.48

France

1.42

0.36

1.07

0.50

0.08

0.06

Germany

2.01

1.24

0.77

0.32

0.12

0.04

Total

2.87

0.95

1.92

1.15

0.41

0.20

Company 2

UK

4.97

0.48

4.48

2.56

0.5

0.14

Sweden

7.91

1.35

6.56

2.26

0.00

0.00

Spain

5.45

2.85

2.60

0.49

0.00

0.00

Greece

1.82

1.05

0.77

0.00

0.00

0.00

Total

5.09

0.76

4.33

2.31

0.5

0.14

Company 3

Germany

1.8

0.05

1.8

0.4

0.4

0.06

France

0.6

0.06

0.5

0.12

0.3

0

UK

0.5

0.0

0.5

0.1

0.06

0

Scandinavia

1.0

0.15

0.8

0.2

0.2

0

Total

0.9

0.05

0.8

0.2

0.2

0.02

Company 4

Germany

0.29

0

0.29

0.0

0.0

0


Table 7 Serious UEfs in oxidation hair dyes consumers depending on previous use of black henna tattoos

Company 1

Company 2

Company 3

Total three companies

Black henna tattoo

Incidence (%)

Relative risk

Incidence (%)

Relative risk

Incidence (%)

Relative risk

Incidence (%)

Relative risk

Serious UEfs in consumers with known black henna tattoo application

52.7

52.7: 11.2 = 4.7

50*

50: 7.1 = 7.0

100

100: 20 = 5

54.8

58.8: 12.8 = 4.3

Serious UE in consumers with no black henna tattoo and in consumers who have not answered the question

11.2

7.1

20

12.8

Age effect on serious and non-serious UEfs with manifestations compatible with allergic contact dermatitis

The age distribution of serious and non-serious undesirable effects compatible with manifestations of contact dermatitis (causality assessment likely and very likely) for Companies 1 and 2 is shown in figure 3.

It should be taken into consideration that the serious undesirable events with known exact age are over-represented on the graph compared to the non-serious events with known age because age is known in almost all cases of serious adverse events. Although it was not possible to get the actual number of units sold for each age to allow for statistical analysis, it can be visually observed that serious undesirable events apparently occur at a higher frequency in the younger age groups in the UK (Company 1).

Discussion

Review of reporting rates

The review of post-marketing undesirable events data for hair colouring products reported from the four major companies across Europe for the period 2003-2006 contributes to the evaluation of the incidence of allergy in hair dye users and identification of possible risk factors.

Level of incidence

Spontaneous notifications: alleged UEvs

The reporting rates are linked to the cosmetovigilance system. As expected, the reporting rates of alleged cases are somewhat different from one company to the other, from one European country to the other within the same company, and different for the type of hair dye products (for instance, reporting rates to direct hair colouring products are significantly lower than reporting rates to oxidation hair colouring products). Nevertheless, when the cosmetovigilance systems are stable over time for a company in an area, these reporting rates of alleged UEvs, all levels of causality assessment included, are important to follow for possible signal detection.

Incidence of contact allergy related to hair colouring products

The reporting of UEvs associated with cosmetic products, which often relies on self diagnosis and self medication, is largely underestimated as most reactions are not severe and consequently are not always declared by consumers. As is the case with post-marketing surveillance (PMS) on drugs, spontaneous reporting is mainly used for identifying signals and validating the cause of well identified serious cases. A medical evaluation of the reactions initially attributed to cosmetics by consumers is necessary for establishing the cause-of-effect to allow appropriate individual follow-up measures [8-10]. Indeed, after a case-by-case examination by dermatologists, only 31% of people notifying adverse events to a cosmetic company were found to have manifestations causally related to normal use of the respective product [8]. In another study, 151 subjects related UEvs to 533 products: after causality assessment by dermatologists, 25 products were found to be certainly related and 50 products were found to be probably/likely related to notified manifestations [9]. Thus, causality assessment of each case is a key factor for the validation of signals in PMS.

Historically, consumers in the UK have always had a higher rate of reporting of undesirable events for all types of cosmetic products. The data presented here for the hair colour category reflects the same trend. However, there is no specific concern with these incidence rates.

The incidence of adverse skin reactions to hair colouring products in Europe is comparable to other types of cosmetic products as reported in consecutive eczema patients [9, 10], cosmetovigilance studies (notifications by health professionals) [11] and in consumer complaint-based studies [12, 13].

Analysis of cases of allergic contact dermatitis to oxidation hair dyes in our study showed some unusual clinical features (pronounced facial oedema) in a small subset of consumers; the outcome of these cases is the same as the one described in classical contact dermatitis. The percentage of serious cases notified to companies (< 5%) appears to be lower than that which is found by regulatory authorities (15-27%) [14, 15]. As we believe that there is less under-reporting for serious UEvs than for non-serious UEvs and that almost all serious UEvs are finally notified to companies, one possible explanation could be the different source of notifications. The public cosmetovigilance systems are notified chiefly by dermatologists and dermatologists see more severe cases; as consumers are the main actors in private cosmetovigilance systems, this allows the companies to have a more exhaustive view on all the diverse manifestations with varying levels of severity.

Analysis of main parameters examined across companies

A review of several possible contributing factors on reporting rates such as time, country and type of products has led to the following conclusions:

Time effect (for the whole European area)

The European reporting rates for alleged UEvs to all hair colouring products (unselected consumer reports, all kinds of causality assessment) are stable through the years. This is also verified for each country reporting rate and for each company. For countries with no market and for those with zero events in 2003 the increase is due to progressive penetration of the products on the market at the beginning of the analysed period, as well as to improvement of the structure of consumer call centres, post-marketing surveillance process and resulting improved data collection (see country effect). The European reporting rates for alleged UEvs to each oxidation and direct hair colouring products are also stable across the years. In the same way, the European reporting rates of UEfs with manifestations compatible with allergic contact dermatitis (causality assessment likely and very likely) to each oxidation and direct hair colouring are also stable across the years.

Country effect

Yearly country reporting rates (alleged UEvs, medically validated UEfs, allergic contact dermatitis to oxidation and direct hair colouring products) are stable in all countries with a few exceptions:
  • A trend for an increase in alleged UEvs to all hair colouring products (oxidation and direct) in Austria (new market) and Finland (very low level of complaints, not allowing a meaningful analysis) (Company 2).
  • A trend for an increase in alleged UEvs to oxidation hair colouring products in Scandinavian countries due to restructuring and improved data collection (Company 3).
  • A trend for an increase in UEfs to oxidation hair colour was seen in Greece (very low level of complaints, not allowing a meaningful analysis) (Company 2).

Four-year reporting rates for medically confirmed UEfs to oxidation hair colouring products are similar in all countries within the same company with a few exceptions:

  • UK, with significantly greater rates for medically confirmed UEfs, allergic contact dermatitis, oedematous allergic contact dermatitis and serious undesirable events (Company 1).
  • UK and in Sweden with higher rates of oedematous contact dermatitis compared to Spain and Greece (Company 2).

Product type effects

Generally rates (UEvs and UEfs) with direct hair colouring products are significantly lower than the rates with oxidation hair colouring products, with the exception of alleged UEvs for Company 2. The significance of these differences should be taken with caution as the market share for direct hair dyes is considerably smaller than the market share for oxidative hair dyes. Additionally, the population, age and mode of use of this category of products are not the same and this may have an impact on the way of reporting.

The same caution should be taken when assessing differences between rates to Home use products versus Professional products; an under-reporting of UEs from the distribution circuit of Professional products compared to Home use products contributes to these differences.

Risk factors

The complete analysis of the serious reactions reported with oxidation hair colouring products shows that there is a statistically significant association with a previous exposure to black henna tattoos. This relative risk is more than 4-fold. This is because black henna tattoos can contain high concentrations (> 15%) of PPD [16]. A consumer, pre-sensitised by a black henna tattoo, will be at a higher risk of elicitation of a serious reaction when using a hair colouring product containing PPD [17-20] and potentially cross-reacting colourants. There are more than 100 reports in the literature on sensitization to PPD by black henna tattoos. Severe oedematous reactions to hair colouring products leading to hospitalisation or visits to emergency departments of adolescents sensitized by black henna tattoos have been described [21-26].

The impact of black henna tattoos has been acknowledged by some health authorities in the last few years. In France, since 2006, Afssaps has conducted a consumer awareness campaign on the risks associated with this practice [15, 27]. In 2008, the European Commission launched a campaign in all member states to provide information to the public that black henna tattoos can cause serious health injuries [28].

Conclusion

An analysis of undesirable events reported following the use of hair colouring products in Europe 2003-2006, shows that the reporting rates of undesirable events, including contact allergy-type events, are stable. This is true for both oxidative and direct hair colouring products. The few exceptions of trends to increase are related to biasing factors such as low number of sales in the beginning of the period (i.e. new launches), changes to cosmetovigilance processes, and most importantly to extremely low numbers of undesirable events, which do not allow a meaningful statistical analysis.

The incidence of adverse skin reactions following the use of hair colouring products is comparable with other cosmetic product types, although some reactions can be more serious. Some severe allergic contact dermatitis to oxidative hair colouring products has been observed in a subset of consumers. The analysis of these cases shows that a key contributory risk factor identified for these events is previous application of black henna tattoos.

In recognizing some of the safety concerns, the industry has gradually increased the safety labeling of hair colouring products through the years. Product labels now include, besides the ingredient listing, warning statements alerting users, (i) that hair colourants may cause reactions which may be severe, (ii) not to apply products in people who have already experienced some reactions, and (iii) increased allergy risk as a result of previous exposure to black henna tattoos. In addition, there is a recommendation to conduct a skin alert/compatibility test before proceeding to colour the hair [29, 30].

In conclusion, hair colouring products may be used by consumers with the same level of confidence as other cosmetic products, provided that use instructions are followed carefully. In some cases where follow-up was more thorough or more information was available, it is clear that some consumers did not follow the use and safety instructions recommended. Prospective studies are needed to understand risk and risk factors in the younger age groups (< 16 years).

Acknowledgements

Financial support: none. Conflict of interest: none.

References

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