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Texte intégral de l'article
 
  Version imprimable

Proposal for a new UVA protection factor: use of an in vitro model of immediate pigment darkening


European Journal of Dermatology. Volume 12, Numéro 5, 439-44, September - October 2002, Rapports d'investigature


Summary  

Auteur(s) : Corinne ROUTABOUL, Alain DENIS, Michel BOHBOT, Bioderma, 75, cours A.-Thomas, 69447 Lyon Cedex 3, France..

Illustrations

ARTICLE

It is now commonly recognised that UVA as well as UVB irradiation is involved in the development of cutaneous cancers. This relation to skin exposure is particularly clear for squamous cell carcinomas (SCCs) and basal cell carcinomas (BCCs) in Caucasian people [1]. Furthermore, the cutaneous SCC and BCC carcinogenesis action spectrum in the albino hairless mouse established by de Gruijl [2] shows two maximum efficiency wavelengths: the main in the UVB and a second in the UVA region. The relative efficiency of the second maximum is approximately 10,000 times lower than that of the first but it is increased by the higher doses of UVA received. UVA represents 98% of the total UV received at the Earth surface so that it can be considered that the difference in effectiveness between UVB and A is only of 100 times. For these reasons, the cosmetics industry has had to improve UVA sunscreen protection (indeed, the first generation of sunscreens did not provide any protection against UVA).

Immediate and persistent pigment darkening (IPD and PPD), aspects of the in vivo macroscopic evidence of UVA exposure, were chosen to determine UVA protection factors [4, 5]. Indeed the other in vivo methods available have important disadvantages. For example, the method based on UVA erythema induction requires psoralen [3] to be taken by the volunteer and thus is not ethically acceptable because these compounds are known to interact with DNA. Furthermore, protection factors obtained from artificially sensitised skin are probably not relevant to those determined with normal skin. The pigmentation method is a reproducible and useful tool for routine assessment of UVA protection [4, 5]. It should be noted that there is no consensus on the use of this (or any other) method to determine protection factors in UVA.

Very little information is available about the nature and mechanism of immediate pigment darkening, also called Meirowsky phenomena. Immediate pigment darkening is a transitory darkening of the skin observed after UVA exposure. Most authors agree on four points [6]. It involves the melanocytic system: melanin precursors and/or melanin. It is often thought, with no clear evidence, that redox reactions occur with these compounds. IPD is UVA induced, partly reversible after light turn off and oxygen-dependent. After light turn off, the coloration of the skin fades rapidly over 2 hrs, then more slowly during 24 hrs on average. In this second phase, the coloration of the skin is called Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD).

It appeared important to us to reproduce in vitro this phenomenon. From a practical point of view, we could expect to use this in vitro model to quantify the protection afforded by commercial sunscreens. This in vitro "protection parameter" could be used either as an alternative to human experiment (which often causes ethical problems) or as a predictive value of in vivo protection prior to human experiments. Indeed, few in vitro methods are now available for determining the UVA protection factor. The best known and most widely used is the Diffey-Robson calculation method [7]. But, it is quite unsuitable for it uses the action spectrum for erythema induction in human whereas in vivo experiments use the Meirowsky phenomena action spectrum.

In order to set up an in vitro model of immediate pigment darkening, we investigated the evolution of different mixtures of melanocytic compounds under irradiation. We mainly worked with melanin precursors rather than melanin: melanin is almost insoluble and the reversibility of IPD suggests that it takes place from precursors. Furthermore, during the past 10 years, results reported concerning the biological role of the melanocytic system suggest that it is related to the formation of soluble, labile and reactive melanin precursors. For example, it has been shown that some of them (in particular 5,6 dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DICA) and 5-S-cysteinylDOPA) have an important antioxidant activity [8-12]. DICA has also been found to play a messenger role in NO synthesis [13]. Tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for the formation of melanin, is able to use superoxide anion for its synthesis task thus eliminating this dangerous species [14-17]. In fact, the melanin synthesis machinery could be as protective as its final product.

L-DOPA, a eumelanin and pheomelanin precursor, has been chosen for its solubility in water and its stability. This compound does not absorb in the UVA region so we had to introduce a UVA absorbing compound. We chose pheomelanins for their ubiquitous presence in the melanocytic system and their solubility. Furthermore, their UVA irradiation induces the formation of semiquinonic radicals which are expected to play a primer role in our model [18].

We examined spectral variations of solutions of DOPA and pheomelanin occurring during UVA irradiation.

Then, we tried to develop a method to determine a UVA protecting parameter (Puva) related to the model created. The criteria for determining the Puva was the ability of sunscreen to inhibit the model IPD reaction in vitro.

Materials and method

Chemicals: DOPA, mushroom tyrosinase, mannitol, cystein, Na2HPO4, Na2EDTA, K3FeCN6 were purchased from Sigma.

Solutions: All tested solutions were made in phosphate buffer (4 mM, pH = 7).

Preparation of pheomelanins: Synthesis of pheomelanin was performed according to the method described by Ito [19] using DOPA, cystein and mushroom tyrosinase.

Irradiation source and dosimetry: The irradiation source is a Muller Xe 150 W lamp equipped with a WG 335 filter (thickness 3 mm) and a water filter. The UVA output was about 12 mW/cm2 measured with a radiometer Oriel 70380.

Model solutions: The solution of DOPA (4.5 mM) and pheomelanin (1.6 x 10- 2 mg/ml) in phosphate buffer was UVA-irradiated using the apparatus described above. Absorbance variations of the solutions were monitored using a Hewlett Packard (HP 8452) UV-Vis spectrophotometer.

Synthesis of DOPAchrome: This compound was obtained by the addition of two equivalents of sodium periodate on one equivalent of DOPA according to the procedure described by Kagedal [20].

Detection of DOPAchrome: Detection of DOPAchrome in irradiated solutions of DOPA and pheomelanin was performed by HPLC using a Bischoff Ultrasep column (C18, 6 mum, 150 x 4 mm) and UV-Vis detector (lambda = 300 nm). The mobile phase was composed of 83% phosphoric buffer (pH = 4.30 mM) and 17% of methanol.

Preparation of sunscreen samples: Sunscreen was sprayed on a quartz cuvet at a concentration of 2 mg/cm2. Then the cuvet was filled with 3 ml of the model solution and irradiated with UVA (the sunscreen facing the lamp output).

Results

Spectroscopic studies of mixed solutions of DOPA and pheomelanins under irradiation

DOPA (4.5 mM) and pheomelanin (1.6 x 10- 2 mg/ml, 1.1 muM considering the molecular weight to be to 600 g/mol) solutions in phosphate buffer (pH = 7, 4 mM) were irradiated by UVA using a 150 W xenon lamp equipped with WG335 (3 mm thickness) and a water filter. The absorbance of the solutions in the UV-Vis region was followed during the irradiation. Figure 1 shows the absorption spectrum of such a solution before and after its exposure to UVA (about 45 J/cm2). For all wavelengths, an increase in solution absorbance occurred with a maximum amplitude at 480 nm. When the irradiation was stopped, the absorbance decreased (Fig. 2). The decrease reached 8% at 340 nm and 20% at 480 nm (average) one hour after the light was turned off. Thus, the phenomenon was partially reversible. For longer observation times, black melanin-like polymers were formed in the solutions. Indeed, after several hours in solution (even in the absence of irradiation), DOPA is unstable and leads to the formation of auto-oxidation melanin-like polymer [23]. As a control, a solution of DOPA alone was treated as previously described (without irradiation UVA) to ensure that the auto-oxidation process does not participate in the reaction observed in the presence of pheomelanin.

Figure 3 shows the absorbance variations at 480 nm as a function of the irradiation time for aerated (atmospheric conditions) and deaerated (argon bubbling) solutions of DOPA (4.5 mM) and pheomelanin (1.6 x 10- 2 mg/ml). The absorbance of the deaerated solution varied much less than that of the aerated one. When oxygen was bubbled through the solution (Fig. 3), no increase in absorbance variations was noted. Addition of a free radical scavenger, mannitol (0.37 mM), induced a 50% decrease in the absorbance variations at 480 nm (Fig. 4). The same phenomenon was observed when EDTA (70 muM), a metal chelator, was added (Fig. 4).

The DOPA and pheomelanin solutions irradiated as described were analysed by HPLC. A compound which absorbs at 480 nm was separated from DOPA (Fig. 5). Pure DOPAchrome, obtained as described by Kagedal et al. [20], allowed us to identify the compound absorbing at 480 nm as DOPAchrome.

We showed that the UVA irradiation of DOPA and pheomelanin solutions leads to an increase in their absorbance with a maximum amplitude at 480 nm. This phenomenon is partially reversible and oxygen-dependent. The mechanism of the reaction is probably a radical one because it is inhibited by mannitol and EDTA. We can propose a two-step mechanism. In the first step, the irradiation of pheomelanin leads to the formation of semiquinonic radicals, already observed in the skin [21]. In the second step, these radicals induce oxidation of DOPA probably with the involvement of oxygen reactive species as intermediates suggested by the oxygen-dependence of the reaction in vitro and its inhibition by EDTA (chelating iron inhibit Fenton type reaction which lead to reactive oxygen species). The oxidation of DOPA has been studied by pulsed radiolysis [22, 23] and found to proceed in several steps: DOPA is first oxidised to DOPAsemiquinone and then to DOPAquinone. This compound undergoes rearrangement and leads to the formation of DOPAchrome which was detected in our solutions by HLPC. Its molar extinction coefficient is 3,700 cm- 1M- 1 at 475 nm [20]. Thus, the average concentration of DOPAchrome in model solutions after irradiation (90 min) was estimated at 30 muM. After turning off the light, the absorbance of model solutions decreased suggesting that the formation of DOPAchrome becomes less than its oxidation to melanin-like polymer. Indeed, the molar extinction coefficient of the polymer is lower than that of DOPAchrome at 480 nm [20].

Thus, the irradiation of DOPA and pheomelanin solutions in these conditions satisfactorily mimics the effects of a UVA irradiation on the skin as far as IPD is concerned. They are good candidates for an in vitro model of immediate pigment darkening. Furthermore the compounds used are soluble and present in melanocytes and keratinocytes of Caucasian subjects. Interaction between DOPA and pheomelanins could occur in vivo as described to occur in vitro.

New method to quantify UVA photoprotection

Definition

We used the inhibition of the model reaction described above as an indicator of the filtering efficiency of the sun-screen tested. In order to increase the absorbance variations observed on irradiated model solutions, K3FeCN6 (45 muM) was added to the solution. This compound is expected to play a double role: promoting radical formation by supplying iron (via Fenton processes) and favouring the formation of DOPAchrome by complexing DOPA.

The sunscreen to be tested was placed on a quartz surface (2 mg/cm2) between the irradiation source and the model solution. The absorbance of the solution at 480 nm was measured before and after irradiation. Its variation was used to define the level of protection afforded by the sunscreen.

We calibrated the response of the reaction to filtering inhibition using some neutral* attenuators filtering 10 to 70% of the incident light (*they do not modify the emission spectrum of the lamp). They were placed between the model solution and the lamp. The absorbance of the solutions was measured before and after the irradiation. Its variation varied linearly with the percentage of light cut off by the attenuator (Fig. 6) giving a calibration curve. Measuring the absorbance variation for sunscreen samples allowed us to determine the percentage absorbance of a beam attenuator which would have the same inhibitory effect as the tested sunscreen as shown in figure 7. The parameter obtained was called Puva (for parameter in UVA) and is in an indicator of the filtering efficiency of the sunscreen. Puva was determined for 10 sunscreens (Table I). The values of Puva varied from 37 to 72. The method developed is reproducible with a low standard deviation of 6.2%.

Another possibility was to define the protection parameter in the same way as the in vivo parameter is defined i.e. using pigmentation method [4, 5]. The evolution of the model solution absorbance at 480 nm was followed during irradiation to determine the curve delta(OD480nm) versus time (time is proportional to the dose received). This must be done for two samples: one protected by sunscreen and the other not. Thus, we obtained two curves (Fig. 9). The in vivo protection factor is defined as the ratio of the irradiation dose necessary to obtain the same variation of skin pigmentation on a protected skin area (with sunscreen) to that on an unprotected skin area (without sunscreen). So, we defined P* calculated as below:

P* = (Dp/Dnp)

Where Dp is the dose necessary to obtain an absorbance variation (DELTAOD480nm) of 0.2 for the protected model solution and Dnp is the dose necessary to obtain an absorbance variation of 0.2 for the unprotected model solution. The value of 0.2 was chosen because it is the largest absorbance variation we could obtain without any artefact due to pigment polymerisation.

The measurement of P* appeared to be simpler and faster than that of Puva because only two samples are needed to determine the protection parameter whereas 5 were necessary for Puva determination (4 for calibration and one for the tested sample).

But, numerical values of P* (2 to 10) are much lower than Puva values (1 to 70) or to in vivo values (2 to 35). This scale difference could increase the difficulty in making a parallel with traditionally determined protection factors (in vivo or in vitro). Thus, the following experiments were made with the first method described here.

Correlation with classical methods of determination of protecting factors

Correlation Puva/IPuva

The method described by Diffey-Robson [7] is an in vitro spectroscopic method. The absorption spectrum of the sunscreen is measured on a glass slide and combined with the action spectrum for erythema induction in humans and the emission spectrum of the sun (40° latitude North). In Europe, the protective factor obtained for the UVA region is called IPuva (indice de protection UVA). IPuva and Puva were determined for 10 sunscreens (Table I). When the IPuva increased, the Puva increased. The linear correlation coefficient was 0.86 (Fig. 8). This value is quite low but it should be taken in consideration that standard deviation for IPuva determination is about 20%.

Furthermore different action spectrums are involved in the two methods. The Diffey-Robson [7] method involves: the action spectrum for erythema induction in man, the absorption spectrum of the tested compound, the emission spectrum of the sun. However, the method described here involves: the action spectrum for model reaction induction, the absorption spectrum of the tested compound, the emission spectrum of the lamp.

Correlation SPF/Puva

Sun Protecting Factor (SPF) characterises the ability of a sunscreen preparation to inhibit the appearance of sunburn under irradiation UVA and B. The SPF was determined for the tested preparations according to the classical in vitro Diffey-Robson method [7] (this value is well correlated to the in vivo experiments). The figure 10 shows Puva as a function of SPF for the tested compounds. Surprisingly, a linear variation could be extrapolated. Puva and SPF increased simultaneously. The linear correlation coefficient was low: 0.77. This value is lower than that obtained for the previous correlation. This is in agreement with the obviously different nature of the phenomenon involved. Indeed, there is no reason for the existence of a simple correlation: SPF is a UVA + B erythemal parameter whereas Puva is a UVA biochemical parameter. Thus the correlation IPa-Puva seems to be much more pertinent, Puva been defined in UVA only.

About the correlations: Both the correlations gave a linear tendency with a low correlation coefficient, Puva increased when SPF and/or IPuva increased. This is due to the fact that different processes and action spectrum are involved. However this result is quite satisfactory because it show that our parameter can be effectively linked to existent parameters and that its use as a routine tool in the quantification of the efficiency of new products is completely justified.

Discussion

We succeeded in building an in vitro model which reproduces the main characteristics of immediate pigment darkening in vivo: UVA induction, reversibility, oxygen-dependence, increase in absorbance. This was done using melanocytic compounds DOPA and pheomelanin.

The involvement of melanin precursor in immediate pigment darkening, (suggested by the model build here and by other authors [9]) could explain the difficulties encountered in predicting the solar sensitivity of Caucasian subjects (erythemal sensitivity as well as pigmenting capability). Actually, some classifications of Caucasians are based on skin colour though melanin precursors are colourless.

On the basis of this model (pheomelanin catalysed), a UVA protecting factor has been developed (Puva and P*). in vivo protection factors are defined as the ability to inhibit erythema in the case of UVA + B irradiation and immediate pigment darkening (in most cases) in the case of UVA irradiation. Erythema was chosen as an end point because it is the most evident and visual deleterious effect of a solar irradiation on skin. But some authors argue that it could be not representative of UV cutaneous damage for long term modification such as aging and cancer. They propose different end points such as sunburn cells, global DNA damage (comet assay), P53... As far as UVA is concerned, IPD is the endpoint frequently used but its biological role is still misunderstood: is it the scar of a deleterious effect or a defence reaction of the skin? Whatever the answer, it is a visually evident trace of UVA irradiation on the skin. Our model tries to mimic this response. The protection parameter defined here is obviously not an absolute nor global evaluation of the protection against real biological damage induced on skin. But, it allows the definition of a novel scale with some advantages and drawbacks. The major advantages are:

- It is an in vitro method thus useful for rapid estimation of the protection ability of new products in development.

- It is an in vitro method linked to biological events in the skin. So it can be used as an alternative method to human experiments for very high protection factors which require very long exposure time in vivo.

- It enables quantification of UVA photoprotection to be proposed for very light skin which is not measurable in vivo for technical and ethical reasons. Indeed, fair skinned people do not exhibit any immediate pigment darkening.

The essential drawback is the in vitro nature of the method, one can obviously claim it is only a model restricted to one reaction. It does not represent the overall events occurring in the skin under a UVA irradiation.

Article accepted on 4/6/02

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