ARTICLE
Auteur(s) : Alexis
Rannou, Celina Rocquet
Soliance, route de Bazancourt, 51110 Pomacle, France
The cosmetic industry answers not only to expressed requests of
the consumers, but also to the latent needs. Besides the efficacy,
the products are expected to present a certain innovation and
sensory properties. The consumers want transparency and
sustainability too, and the industry is working on that. For
instance, the cosmetic ingredient must be as much stable as
possible, and without preservative. Cosmetic products are applied
on healthy skin. Therefore, the zero risk strategy is leading all
developments. Even if considered of second importance, hygiene and
personal care have been proved to be essential in all cultures
and civilizations to improve well-being and self-esteem. The
cosmetic industry is subject to upstream and downstream
pressure. For instance, regulation is getting harder, especially
with REACH (all substances must be registered and their
harmlessness proved). Besides, consumers are more demanding and
more aware of risks, and the product efficacy should be proved by
complementary tests (in vitro, in vivo, clinical). Transparency and
traceability have become keywords, as well as
environment-friendly.
Microalgae are at the origin of life on our planet. The story
begins somewhat 3.8 billion years ago, with the apparition of the
first cyanobacteriae (also called blue algae). They were the very
first living organisms on Earth. By being autotrophic, those
organisms produced oxygen via photosynthesis mechanisms. Then,
under the action of UV rays, part of the oxygen (O2)
that they produced was transformed into ozone (O3) that
accumulated in the stratosphere; thus, a protective layer against
UV was formed, allowing a noticeable reduction in their biocide
effects.
An atmosphere being created, life could go on and develop,
giving birth to other groups of plants and later on animals. As
human beings, we have to remember that our existence is directly
linked with the emergence of those marine microplants. They are the
first link of the global food chain initiated in water. Being able
to photosynthesize, they rely on solar energy and on simple
elements such as CO2, water, and minerals to produce
their own organic material. Thus, they are necessary for the
survival of all the other species. Animal plankton feeds from
microalgae, before being eaten by small fishes, themselves eaten by
fishes of greater sizes, themselves becoming food for humans.
Microalgae contain important quantities of fatty acids, especially
those called essential fatty acids that human can't synthesize.
Consequently, they are of vital importance for the natural
ecosystem and for our own survival.
Microalgae's lipids add value
to the industry
Biodiversity is an inspiring innovation or the other way round?
Similar to microscopic plants, microalgae constitute a pool of
incredible molecules, in such a way that we can consider them as
little organisms that have all the resources they need’ inside
them. They are characterized by an impressive ability to adapt to
their environment that allowed them to survive for millions of
years. We are benefiting from millennium of evolution and natural
innovation to be inspired by and to innovate with. While studying
the mechanisms they have developed to resist UV radiation, draught,
extreme temperatures, and hypersalinity, we can come up with new
industrial applications at the service of mankind and its
environment. Biomimetism, i.e., imitation of nature, represents a
particularly interesting way to go for the development of active
molecules. Considering the existing biodiversity (thousands of
strains and many more till to be discovered) and the ability to
adapt, we can only but imagine the potentials that microalgae can
offer to us.
For instance, microalgae created biological protection
strategies such as antioxidants (carotenoïdes, β-carotene and
astaxanthine, tocopherols, or ascorbate) and enzyme systems
(superoxide dismutase) against molecular oxygen and oxidation.
Confronted to an aggressive environment, microalgae produce
exopolysaccharides. In order to protect themselves from UV rays,
they synthesize mycosporine (MAA), scytonemine, and long chain
polyunsaturated fatty acids (AG-PUFA).
Soliance has been working on microalgae for years (to
develop cosmetic ingredients of natural origin), especially
long chain polyunsaturated fatty acids, which are our main concern
here. These molecules are of great interest in terms of
applications: cardiovascular, neurodegenerative, and inflammatory
diseases, for example. They also present interesting properties
when applied topically. Biological activities of AG-PUFAs on the
skin have been proved through various mechanisms. For instance,
they stimulate the activity of the proteasome, an enzymatic complex
present in the cells, in order to ensure the degradation of
oxidized proteins and the renewal of neo-synthesized proteins
(Friguet et al.). Thus, cutaneous cells are detoxified.
Various processes to extract these molecules have been
developed.
Various strategies for lipid extraction
Soliance has been working for years on these technologies. First,
by maintaining a phytoplankton collection, which is an untapped
reservoir of biodiversity. Then, by optimizing microalgae culture
and active molecules extraction from the biomass, to develop new
cosmetic ingredients. The uniqueness of the Marine Spring Water
that provides the culture medium basis, and exclusive developments
are also Soliance expertise (figure 1).
Soliance has based its extraction process on pharmacognosy
strategy. Microalgae are cultivated from the small scale of the
laboratory to 55 m3 basins through several scale-up
techniques. Then, the biomass is collected and frozen. A first
hydroalcoholic extraction is realized to get the most polar and
soluble fractions. Then, apolar solvents are used to extract the
most apolar molecules such as pigments, and polar such as
chlorophylls. The AG-PUFAs are at least subject to molecular
distillation to eliminate any residue trace. The obtained lipidic
extracts are particularly rich in AG-PUFAs (> 25%) and free
fatty acids (> 40%) (figure 2).
This process uses extraction solvents. It enables the obtention
of lipidic fractions particularly rich in AG-PUFA that are not so
much colored, but it is not very environment-friendly and therefore
not subject to certifications (Ecocert, Natrue, etc.). It is still
expensive and the solid residues have to be treated to recycle the
solvents.
Other technologies have been developed to improve the ecological
profile of the extraction. Enzymatic extraction, using proteases
and cellulases to “open” the cells and release their content, is an
option. Supercritical CO2 extraction is even better,
since it doesn't use any chemicals. Soliance uses the enzymatic
extraction for one of the microalgae valorization (figure 3).
This process is solvent-free and the extract is obtained
directly with a lipidic excipient, but it is still expensive, and
not selective enough (especially towards chlorophyll and needs a
treatment of the solid residue).
Outlooks
Other technologies used to obtain AG-PUFAs are also promising. They
are related to new challenges in process engineering concerning the
culture, the separation, or the extraction. We may mention a
few examples:
- – microalgae culture, which implies optimization
of the strain and improvement of the culture conditions;
- – separation, with continuous technologies, or by
floating technique, for instance;
- – drying, which may be processed with a microwave
or in more classical manners;
- – extraction, various methods have been recently
developed and used: sonication and microwave, supercritical
CO2, electroporation, enzymatic way, affinity
techniques, and bio-based solvents.
In terms of outlooks and forecasts, it is important to note that
functionalization of the AG-PUFAs is a good way to improve the
bioavailability of the molecules, which is essential for any active
ingredient, whether it is designed for food, pharma, or cosmetic
industry. A way is glycosylation (figure 4).
Another technique is through biological pathway, such as those
used to produce sophorolipids (figure 5).
Sustainability and environment
Microalgae are at the core of ecology. Our planet is threatened by
the impacts of human activities. In terms of natural resources, our
consumption of energetic substances (fuel, gas, coal) as well as
minerals (calamine, precious metal) or plant- and animal-derived
substances is far more higher than what Earth can naturally
recreate. It is therefore necessary to find today the innovative
solutions of tomorrow. Microalgae consume more O2 than
they emit CO2, and they represent 80% of the emitted
O2 on the planet! Moreover, they represent a renewable
and natural raw material for the industry. By cultivating
microalgae, we spare fish from being used for their oil content.
Pure water is becoming an increasingly scarce and precious
resource. International development projects taking part in its
savings and depollution are growing more numerous.
Progressively, the demographic explosion creates a competition
between arable lands – dedicated to human nutrition – and building
lands – dedicated to housing. It is a particularly important data
as cultivations not dedicated to human nutrition will be less
and less taken into consideration. Industries whose
activities depend on those crops will have to find raw materials
elsewhere. From now on, light is shred on natural renewable
resources that do not enter in competition with human
nutrition!
Carbon balance
Atmospheric pollution due to GEGs (greenhouse effect gases) and
noxious substance emissions represent a real concern for the future
of our planet. The CO2 consequences on our climate are
various and complex: global warming, ocean acidification, forest
poisoning, etc. It is therefore urgent for us to find solutions to
secure the future of our planet.
Indeed, we now know that microalgae can sequester
CO2, and even more interestingly, we now know how to
push their metabolism to increase their CO2 consumption.
Thanks to photosynthesis, they constitute the first oxygen
producer on Earth, far ahead all the forests together. They produce
80% of the oxygen of our planet, and can be considered as the
“Earth lungs.”
Conclusion
Microalgae are definitely of great interest for the human being.
Many applications can be identified, such as in food,
pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. AG-PUFAs applications as active
ingredients dedicated to cosmetic products are certain, but
improvements have still to be made. Cleaner processes are to be
developed, with always the economical constraints related to cost
and yield in mind. Besides, production processes should always be
worked at different scale, in order to enable industrial
productions. Regarding the chemical evaluation of the obtained
oils, the actual techniques have to be improved. One
interesting outlook is nevertheless the functionalization of the
microalgal oils.
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